The pith of the sago palm is used for food in the Solomon Islands and all
the land area east thereof, up to and including the Malay Peninsula. It can
be a ready and substantial source of food when more normal means of subsistence
are, for one reason or another, not available. This tree is found growing wild in
almost every swamp, and near most streams and lakes. Unless planted and
cultivated, it is not usually found on high ground.
a. Description
The full-grown sago palm reaches a height of over 25 feet and has a
diameter of about 2 feet (see accompanying picture). The outer surface of the
trunk is a hard shell of tough fibrous wood an inch or less in thickness, while
the entire inner portion is filled with a soft pithy substance about the
consistency of cheese, with numerous coarse, rather brittle fibers running
through it. The pith at the lower end of the trunk is a brownish red in color, fading
out to a pure white at the top.
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SAGO PALM--DETAIL OF TRUNK AND FRONDS |
The leaves are long, feather-like fronds with a thick midrib bearing long
sharp spines. On mature trees the leaf stems or midribs range from 8 to 12 feet
in length; they are so strong that the natives use them for building the walls of
their houses. At the base, where they encircle the trunk of the palm, the leaf
stems are concave in shape and have a diameter of around two feet. Young trees
have the entire trunk covered with leaves, but as the tree matures those on the
lower part of the trunk fall off.
b. Flowers and Fruit
When the sago palm is about 15 years old it sends up tall spikes of pink
or reddish flowers at the top. The flowers later develop into clusters of nut-like
fruit, dry and scaly, and somewhat resembling small pine cones but having a
smooth shiny surface.
To obtain the maximum amount of sago, the natives cut the palm just
before the flower develops, for if the fruit is allowed to mature it will absorb all
the pithy substance and the tree will be little more than a hollow shell. A
certain amount of sago could probably be obtained from younger trees several
years before they reach maturity, but it would be more difficult to extract and
the yield might not be worth the effort involved. However, it should not be
difficult, in a large grove of trees, to locate some trees on which the flower stalks
were visible but not yet fully developed. A tree on which the fruit had already
appeared would be of no value.
c. Extracting the Sago
To obtain the sago from the standing tree is relatively simple. The tree
is first cut down and the thin outer shell removed. If an axe, hatchet, machete, or
similar heavy knife is available for cutting down the tree, no additional
equipment is necessary, as the further stages in the operation can be carried out
with materials readily obtained in the forest. The outer shell having been
removed and the pith exposed, the pith is cut and beaten into pulp. The next step
is to mash the sago starch or flour from the pith (see sketch below).
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The washing trough, in which the pulpy mass is placed, can be made out of the
base of one of the sago-leaf stems. As the base of the leaf stem clasps the
trunk, it is quite large and for a considerable distance is concave on one side so
that it makes an excellent trough. The portion used is usually from eight to ten
feet long, and is set up on stakes so that one end is lower than the other. The
strainer at the lower end of the trough, through which the pulverized pith is
washed, is usually made of the fibrous covering of the leaf stem of the coconut
palm. The mashed pith is dumped into the trough and water poured over it to
wash out the starch. During this process it is worked with the hands or pounded
with a stick to break it up still more. The basin into which the starchy water
runs may be another sago leaf stem or a container made of large flat leaves. After
the starchy water has remained in this container for a short while, it
separates into a precipitate of fine flour at the bottom and water on top. The
water may then be drained off, leaving a mass of damp flour as the final product
of the process. When wrapped in leaves (or put in an ordinary cloth bag), this
keeps for weeks.
d. Cooking
The natives have two methods of cooking sago: in gruel and pancakes. Sago
gruel is made by adding boiling water to a lump of flour and stirring it in
a pot over the fire until the whole mixture has a uniform, thick consistency. The
technique is similar to that of preparing oatmeal. The natives then dip out
spoonfuls of the gruel onto leaves and allow it to cool. When cool, it is a
gelatinous cake, which may be either eaten at once or kept for several days. Natives
usually carry these cakes with them when they go on trips. To Europeans these
cakes are rather flat and tasteless. This could probably easily be remedied by
including some flavoring material in the gruel. Even the natives always eat
some other food with the cakes to provide flavor.
The second method of cooking sago is to sprinkle a large lump of the
flour with water and place it on a large pottery shard (or a frying pan) over a
fire, leaving it there for a minute or two. The lump is then lifted off, leaving a
thin cake adhering to the griddle. This cake is turned, after being sprinkled again
on top, and is cooked on the other side. The result is a rubbery pancake, which
the natives do not like as well as the sago cakes described above, but which is
more palatable to a European, particularly if spread with butter or jam.
e. Locating the Sago Palm
Although the sago palm grows wild in New Guinea and in parts of Melanesia, sago
tracts are always owned by nearby natives. Therefore, if it is desired to
keep on friendly terms with them, they should be compensated in some way before
the trees are taken from their plots. Furthermore, in New Guinea at least,
these plots are owned by a patrilineal lineage rather than by an individual. Hence,
care should be taken to deal with the whole lineage or a representative thereof,
rather than an individual who may claim ownership. A standard price per tree
should probably be set, and consistently adhered to. The natives regularly try to
take advantage of whites, and a bargaining arrangement would probably lead to
trouble. It is reported that a price of about 25 cents for each tree would be
adequate compensation, depending on local conditions.
Native culture in New Guinea often demands that a man shall perform one
part of the flour processing while a woman does another. If this division is
reversed or changed, it is often believed that the sago flour will be
inedible. If, therefore, natives are hired to process sago, they should be
permitted to choose their own teams.
The pidgin-English term for sago is "sack-sack." Information about
the location of sago swamps may be obtained from native pidgin speakers by
asking: "Where stop belong sack-sack?" The native may reply: "He stop long
hap (pointing)" meaning "It is in that direction." If one wishes to be guided to
the place one may say: "You showim me this fellow place belong sack-sack." The
pidgin term for guide is "show man." If one wishes to know how much sago
there is, one may inquire: "He got plenty fellow sack-sack long this fellow
place?" or "How much sack-sack he stop along this fellow place?" If the
answer is "lick-lick" it means there is but little. "Plenty fellow" means
a lot. "Hot water" is the pidgin-English term for boiled sago
gruel, while "fry" or "fryim" is the term for the pancakes.